Travel
Weekend Getaway Guide: Abruzzo, Italy
introWith mountains and beaches, historic villages and wild nature reserves, it’s surprising that parts of the Italian region of Abruzzo are still untouched by mass tourism, but it’s precisely this reputation as “undomesticated” that makes Abruzzo one of Italy’s best-kept secrets. Synonymous with disaster for some, due to earthquakes in recent years, the area is recovering – yet it remains a diamond in the rough whose natural beauty, culinary traditions and cultural gems are just waiting to be discovered.
0/16
Travel
Weekend Getaway Guide: Abruzzo, Italy.
AttitudeThe Attitude – Only an hour from the bustle of Rome, reaching Abruzzo is like travelling back in time. Inland from its Adriatic coast are jagged Apennine peaks, hilltop villages and fertile valleys. Until not too long ago, the region’s primary economic drive was shepherding. Flock migrations to high-altitude summer pastures – known as transhumance – began to decline with the unification of Italy in the 19th century, and massive emigration ensued. Abruzzo grew even more sequestered than it had been; the isolation only broke after WWII with the development of highways. Precisely this seclusion helped preserve the area’s ancient traditions, flavours and landscapes intact.
1/16
Travel
Weekend Getaway Guide: Abruzzo, Italy.
JourneyThe Journey – The unspoilt surroundings and dramatic panoramas of Abruzzo beg a slow-travel approach; its mountain and coastal areas are best reached by car. Three main highways connect Abruzzo to the rest of Italy: A14 highway running from Bologna to Bari and passing through each of Abruzzo’s coastal provinces; A24 running from Rome to Teramo via L’Aquila; and highway A25 running from L’Aquila to Pescara. Busses to Abruzzo run hourly from Tibus Roma depot, the journey to L’Aquila is under 90 minutes. International travellers can choose to fly into Pescara International Airport. [Photo: Eleonora Baldwin/Flickr]
2/16
Travel
Weekend Getaway Guide: Abruzzo, Italy.
MomentThe Moment – Abruzzo’s history changed forever at 3:32am on 6 April 2009, when an earthquake measuring 6.3 on the Richter scale devastated the region – but not the dignity – of an entire population. In the terrifying 35 seconds of the first shock, the ancient city centre of L’Aquila was razed to the ground, and many surrounding districts suffered atrocious losses and irreparable damage. But the Abruzzo people could not be bent; they raised their heads, wiped tears and dirt from their faces, and rebuilt cities from the ground up. Rebooting from zero, the population held faith to their motto: “Forte e gentile” – strong and kind. [Photo: Roberto Taddeo/Flickr]
3/16
Travel
Weekend Getaway Guide: Abruzzo, Italy.
ViewThe View – Breathtaking views are everywhere in Abruzzo. Few places, however, boast 360° panoramas like Rocca Calascio. The 10th-century fortified watchtower grew in size and complexity in the 14th century, and then under the Medici in the late 16th century. A filming location for 1985 medieval-inspired fantasy movie Ladyhawke, Rocca Calascio can be reached along easy-to-follow tracks that wind their way up the hillside from the village Calascio. At 1460m elevation, the Rocca’s long views span the surrounding Navelli valley, tiny hilltop hamlets and the Campo Imperatore plain. [Photo: Paoladc91 /Wikimedia Commons]
5/16
Travel
Weekend Getaway Guide: Abruzzo, Italy.
EventThe Event – Attending the annual Festa dei Serpari in Cocullo is not for the faint of heart. Every year on 1 May, the statue of St Dominick is carried in procession around town, literally covered in live, slithering snakes. This rather eccentric manifestation of cultural heritage honours the Saint’s protection against toothaches, rabies and, aptly, snake bites. The non-venomous protagonists are transported in procession and piled on the statue of the Saint by local serpari, “snake charmers”,, who release them into the surrounding forests at the end of the festivity. [Photo: Gianfranco Vitolo/Flickr]
6/16
Travel
Weekend Getaway Guide: Abruzzo, Italy.
LunchThe Lunch – One of the region’s most original lunch spots is Ristoro Mucciante, a butcher shop in the vast Campo Imperatore plain, not far from the hilltop village of Castel del Monte. Beloved pit stop for motorcyclists and skiers on the way back from the slopes, Mucciante’s large outdoor rest area is equipped with camping tables and fornacelle, specially built grills used for self-barbecuing the prized lamb and pork cuts sold inside. The house specialty is arrosticini, fire-grilled lamb skewers which locals grill by the dozen, enjoyed along with house wine, farmstead cheeses and rustic homemade bread. [Photo: Eleonora Baldwin/Flickr]
7/16
Travel
Weekend Getaway Guide: Abruzzo, Italy.
DinnerThe Dinner – Niko Romito has earned 3 Michelin stars, celebrity status and worldwide critical acclaim, but proudly honours his humble Abruzzese origins. In his restaurant Reale in Castel di Sangro, self-taught Romito and his team perform magical modern preparations, infused with his native region’s tradition and flavours that make for a unique gustatory journey. New dishes are conceived every day, but the menu also includes classics that have made Reale famous, listed by year. A phenomenal wine cellar and a handful of guestrooms housed in a former 16th-century monastery complete the offer. [Photo: © Alberto Zanetti for Niko Romito]
8/16
Travel
Weekend Getaway Guide: Abruzzo, Italy.
ShopThe Shop – Abruzzo’s iconic local crafts are linked to the region’s agrarian and pastoral past. For a true artisan souvenir, skip the plastic-wrapped candied almonds and buy a traditional blanket instead. Coperte Merlino Taranta embodies an ancient craft tradition: beautiful hand-woven blankets made with 100% virgin Abruzzo wool since 1870. The blankets can be purchased online or in the original factory in Taranta Peligna, where the entire weaving procedure at the looms can be observed from start to finish, before your very eyes. Prices for king size blankets start at €100. [Photo: © copertemerlinotaranta.it]
9/16
Travel
Weekend Getaway Guide: Abruzzo, Italy.
WalkThe Walk –Grotte di Stiffe is one of central Italy’s prominent karstic cave complexes. The network of tunnels and caves that can be visited year-round with expert speleologists was used as early as the Bronze Age, with archaeological evidence dating back to the Neolithic era. In addition to stalactites and stalagmites are also gorgeous waterfalls. The caves in fact exist thanks to the presence of an underground river that emerges to the surface, a unique phenomenon in Italy. The temperature in the caves is 10°C throughout the year, so bring a sweater! [Photo: Eleonora Baldwin/Flickr]
10/16
Travel
Weekend Getaway Guide: Abruzzo, Italy.
DriveThe Drive – Heading north towards Anversa degli Abruzzi and shortly past Lake Scanno, Highway 479 enters the spectacular Gole del Sagittario, limestone cliffs flanking a deep gorge carved by the River Sagittario. Cutting through the canyon is a fascinating driving and biking experience. Hairpin curves zigzag in and out of lush, tree-covered cliffs, natural springs feed fresh mountain water into the river. This is the habitat of wolves, hawks, owls and the local Marsican brown bear. In the natural reserve are also a botanical garden, a museum, a picnic area and hiking paths. [Photo: pizzodisevo 1937/Flickr]
11/16
Travel
Weekend Getaway Guide: Abruzzo, Italy.
Trabocco CungarelleThe Secret – Costa dei Trabocchi is a stretch of Adriatic coast characterised by a large presence of trabocchi, peculiar “fishing machines” built on stilts. These massive wood constructions have a platform anchored to land by large logs of Aleppo pinewood jutting out into the sea. From the platform, two or more long arms called antennae stretch out, suspended a few metres above the water. These support a huge, narrow-meshed net that is lowered into the water and retrieved with its catch through a complex system of hand-powered winches. Some trabocchi have been converted into restaurants; locals in the know flock to Trabocco Cungarelle for sunset cocktails. [Photo: Maurizio Mucciola/Flickr]
13/16
Travel
Weekend Getaway Guide: Abruzzo, Italy.
FlavourThe Flavour – Visiting Abruzzo and not tasting its wines would be a sin. Masciarelli Tenute Agricole has been producing top-quality wines, oil and grappa for over 30 years. Montepulciano is the grape used to make Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, the “table wine” of the region. In the ‘80s, Gianni Masciarelli overturned centuries of tradition by updating the native grape’s growing methods, and indelibly marking the history of local winemaking. Building upon the revolution he started, his widow, Marina Cvetic, is redefining Italian wine. Estate visits and cellar tours end with a wine tasting paired to local food specialties. [Photo: © Stefano Schirato/Masciarelli.it]
14/16
Travel
Weekend Getaway Guide: Abruzzo, Italy.
DigsThe Digs – Despite their taciturn nature, the Abruzzese are hospitable people. Nothing, however, quite prepares travellers for the welcome received at Sextantio Albergo Diffuso. The elegant hotel is a touchstone to Italy’s storied past, with an original boutique concept: Rooms and communal areas are scattered throughout the small hilltop village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio. Suites are equipped with working fireplaces, craftwork made by villagers, and simple, rustic décor – all in tune with the hilltop town’s medieval essence – yet with modern luxury incorporated seamlessly, such as concealed wiring and technology, free WiFi and under-floor heating. [Photo: Sextantio.it]
15/16
Travel
Weekend Getaway Guide: Abruzzo, Italy.
bioEleonora Baldwin is a TV host, influencer and culinary connoisseur based in Rome, Italy. Her writing appears in several food and travel publications. Her show “ABCheese” is a prime-time success broadcast on Italy’s number one food network, Gambero Rosso. Her co-owned company Casa Mia Italy Food & Wine designs custom culinary travel in Italy for food and wine lovers.
16/16
Sorry, the comment form is closed at this time.