Founded in 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh II, Udaipur – the last capital of the erstwhile Kingdom of Mewar – is a fertile and pretty patch in the otherwise arid desert of Rajasthan that has always captivated movie-makers and visitors from around the world. And it’s not for nothing: its pristine lakes are a sight for sore eyes, the awe-inspiring Rajput architecture is a trip in time to a glorious royal era, the Mewari culture is heart-warming, the food is traditional and bursting with flavour, and the townsfolk are ever-welcoming. This is a place you’ll remember for a long time to come.
The Attitude – Lying in the embrace of the lush Aravalli mountains, and home to gleaming lakes, marble palaces, dreamy havelis, historic forts, old bazaars and intricately carved temples, the fairy-tale ‘City of Lakes’ is quaint, romantic and charmingly laid-back – a magnet for honeymooners, expats and casual travellers seeking a less hectic way of life. It’s traditional in its outlook, respecting what’s ancient and worthy, but global in its appeal, welcoming visitors from everywhere with respect and pride. The locals are a simple, courteous and hospitable lot, and you’ll sense a certain seriousness to ensure that visitors are well cared for and properties are lovingly maintained.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: Udaipur, India.
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The Route – The easiest way to get here is by hopping on a flight from Delhi or Mumbai; you’ll be at Udaipur’s Maharana Pratap Airport in less than 90 minutes. For a cheaper but slower option, consider a train journey from Jaipur but be warned that it could take anywhere between seven and nine hours, so plan for an AC coach or higher for maximum comfort. However, if time is plentiful, drive down from Jaipur in a chauffeur-driven sedan via Chittorgarh – see and admire the UNESCO World Heritage Chittorgarh fort surrounded by cliffs, and learn about its brave and legendary Queen Padmini, a.k.a. Padmavati. [Photo: incredibleindia.org]
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Weekend Getaway Guide: Udaipur, India.
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The Look – The dress code is largely conservative here, and revealing styles have a tendency to attract unwanted attention. So blending in with the locals is the best approach. Treat it as an opportunity to buy and wear hand-block-printed kurtas, kurtis or short kaftans from the local bazaars, and combine with comfortable trousers, capri pants, pyjamas or jeans. Or consider going boho with a colourful ankle-skimming, hand-embroidered, mirror-worked lehenga or gypsy skirt, and jazz it up with silver jewellery. [Photos Courtesy: Anokhi]
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Weekend Getaway Guide: Udaipur, India.
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The Digs –The Neem Tree Bed and Breakfast is a charming haveli-style boutique hotel run by a friendly husband-wife duo. With only eight tastefully and traditionally decorated rooms, it’s ideal for those craving intimacy with an Indian touch. And not just that, its location in the heart of the Old City – near all the places you’ve read about and want to see – makes getting around a breeze. Whether it’s a fresh and sumptuous breakfast beneath the Neem tree in the courtyard or tea on the terrace at sunset alongside views of the floodlit City Palace, this little gem will not disappoint.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: Udaipur, India.
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The Place – The City Palace Museum, housed within the expansive City Palace bordering Lake Pichola, is the city’s most beloved, drawing visitors from far and wide. Inside are various Mahals, chowks, galleries and gardens where you’ll see carefully preserved collections of old weapons, paintings, artefacts, palanquins, ornamental tiles, beautiful mosaics, crystal ware and mirror work. In the evenings, a magnificent hour-long ‘Mewar Sound and Light Show’, recounting the glorious history of Mewar through 15 centuries, is held at Manek Chowk, Mardana Mahal. Narrated by Shriji Arvind Singh Mewar, the current custodian of the House of Mewar, it’s worth witnessing if you’re longing for a slice of something special.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: Udaipur, India.
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The Shop – Crazy about Indian block prints and tie-dyed textiles? You’re in the right place. For readymades in the softest cottons and muls with Indian motifs, Aashka boutique by Princess Bhargavi Kumari Mewar of Udaipur (located at the City Palace Museum Complex) offers a delightful selection. Another favourite among tourists and locals for exquisite and sustainably crafted clothing, accessories and home linens is Anokhi, next door. But if an artsy souvenir is what you’re after, Mani Balaji Arts and Crafts in Alkapuri (pictured) will give you enough reason to splurge; prepare to spend some time poring over antique artefacts, handcrafted idols, Makrana marble curios, Old-World doors, Pichwai paintings and more.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: Udaipur, India.
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The Lunch – Traditional Khana, the unmissable, palatial but delightfully rustic restaurant located in Panchwati Circle, is our pick if you’re craving a hearty Mewar thali served in a traditional atmosphere. The service is friendly, and you’ll be guided through the food selection, sequence and method of eating. Alternately, the unpretentious but warm Krishna Dal Bhati Restro on Gulab Bagh Road, serving Rajasthan’s quintessential Dal Baati Choorma along with Ghatte ki sabzi, offers a light, happy and authentic experience: Don’t let the single-item menu dissuade you from including it in your itinerary; instead, let the quality of the meal do the talking. [Photo: Traditional Khana via Facebook]
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Weekend Getaway Guide: Udaipur, India.
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The Dinner – There’s nowhere quite like Sheesh Mahal restaurant of The Leela Palace Udaipur. Its terrace location commands a view of the shimmering Lake Pichola in the moonlight. The hospitality is inviting, the atmosphere is resplendent, and the North Indian fare is the finest in the region. Their Dhungar paneer masala, Dal baati churma, Laal maas and Kofta-e-sheesh-mahal are highly recommended. TIP: There are only 8 tables available; a little advance planning will go a long way. [Photo: Sheesh Mahal]
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Weekend Getaway Guide: Udaipur, India.
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The Walk – Coming to Udaipur and not doing a tour of Lake Pichola is sacrilege: some of the city’s best sights are here, waiting to be seen up close. For starters, there’s the architectural masterpiece Taj Lake Palace hotel (formerly Jag Niwas and a palace of the Mewars), smack dab in the middle of the blue waters – for non-guests, a boat cruise is the only way to experience it from all sides. Another pretty sight (and stop) is Jag Mandir Island Palace, where Prince Khurram (later Emperor Shāhjahān) once sought refuge. Its imposing pavilion, gorgeous gardens, museum, marble chambers and Darikhana restaurant beckon you inside.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: Udaipur, India.
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The Secret – A short escape from the city is the well-preserved 15th-centuryRanakpur Jain Temple near Sadri town, boasting four shrines, 24 pillared halls with 80 domes supported by 400 columns, and 1444 intricately carved pillars – all exquisitely constructed in light-coloured marble. Spend half a day here, and afterwards drive to Rana Kumbha’s strategically located Kumbalgarh Fort, 3500ft (1,066m) above sea level in the Aravallis. The World Heritage Site’s strategic 36km-long, giant unbroken wall – second only to The Great Wall of China – is worthy of admiration. If you aren’t worn out from wandering, climb the fortress’s steep steps for some amazing views of its many temples and magnificent walls.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: Udaipur, India.
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The Flavour – If there’s ever a place to cater to your sweet tooth in Udaipur, the old-timey JMB – Jagdish Misthan Bhandar in Surajpole is it. The dried fruits, ghee-laden desi mithais and mouth-watering namkeens (salty savouries) are not just perfect to munch while you’re there – they also make perfect takeaways for your friends and family back home. From the photographs displayed on the walls inside, you’ll see that the place is always teeming with Indian celebs looking for a snack fix. Pop by and try their milk cake, Sangam barfi, Diljani, pyaaz ki kachori and mirchi vada.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: Udaipur, India.
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The Market – Throughout the year, Udaipur’s Old City bazaars are abuzz with dozens of dingy stores and makeshift stalls trying to peddle their eye-catching wares. You’ll find all sorts of stuff, from footwear and leather articles to silver jewellery and paintings. Navigating the labyrinth of lanes on foot and browsing the dizzying collections in the heat may seem intimidating at first, but worry not: a little tenacity, some fresh fruit juice (from the nearby stalls) and a haggling mindset will get you through. Among the busiest and most famous markets are Bada Bazaar, Hathipole and Jagdish Temple Chowk for tie-dye fabrics, ‘odanis’, trinkets, metalware, miniature paintings, mojaris (embroidered shoes) camel leather ware and vintage artefacts.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: Udaipur, India.
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The View – Perched atop a hill in the Aravallis and originally planned as a hunting lodge as well as weather observatory, the 17th-century Monsoon Palace (formerly Sajjangarh Fort) offers wondrous views of the city, the valley, Lake Pichola and nearby Fateh Sagar Lake. Bond fans might remember it as the setting for the exiled Afghan prince’s lair in the 1983 film Octopussy. For the prettiest view, come here right before sunset. Shake off the crowds by finding a good spot, then pause, take a deep breath and reflect as you watch the setting sun cast a brilliant glow over the palace. [Photo: Shakti/Wikimedia Commons]
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Weekend Getaway Guide: Udaipur, India.
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The Sound – Every daybetween 7 and 8pm, Bagore-ki-Haveli at Gangaur Ghat is an especially worthy stop for one reason: a captivating music and dance show called ‘Dharohar’ is staged here that offers a deeper appreciation for the heritage of Rajasthan. Witness colourful and energetic folk dances, from Bhavai to Ghoomar, as well as traditional puppetry by well-known artists in the Haveli’s Neem Chowk; in its heyday, it was the scene for royal entertainment of a similar variety.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: Udaipur, India.
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The Event – If you’d like to see the city in all its splendour and get a firsthand taste of its rich tradition and culture, then by all means, visit during March – just in time for the 18-day Mewar festival that marks the advent of Spring and also coincides with the Gangaur festival. As the name suggests, you’ll get a true taste of Mewari tradition: witness a ceremonial procession of Gangaur and Isar led by colourfully dressed women, as well as songs, dances and fireworks as part of the festivities.
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