San Luis Obispo – a bit of a mouthful – is usually referred to as SLO. Local businesses rarely miss an opportunity to pun on that acronym, and the chamber of commerce has coined the slogan “The Happiest Place in America.” If that all sounds irritatingly twee, then you just haven’t spent enough time here. It will grow on you SLOly (sorry). [Photo: San Luis Obispo Chamber of Commerce]
The Attitude – Located on the Central Coast, between the Pacific Ocean to the West and the Santa Lucia Mountains to the East, surrounded by vineyards and blessed with a mild Mediterranean climate, San Luis Obispo neatly encapsulates all that visitors want California to be. As you stroll around town, exploring the Historic Mission and busy downtown streets, it’s impossible to shake the feeling that life in SLO must be pretty sweet. [Photo: San Luis Obispo Chamber of Commerce]
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The Look – Nail laid-back California boho chic with style essentials like flannel shirts, pre-loved Levi’s, denim jackets, floaty dresses and cosy knits from the irresistibly cool selection at Ruby Rose. The vintage boutique performs a trick that truly deserves to be called curation, turning clothes, accessories and interiors that were probably one (wo)man’s trash at some stage into an eclectic treasure trove where you’ll find yourself coveting everything – even the stuff you have absolutely no use for.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The People – The celebrity pedigree of SLO county is, unsurprisingly, very showbiz. Disney star Zac Efron, professional Jackass Chris Pontius, and Glee alum Harry Shum Jr. grew up here, while Weird Al Yankovic studied at Cal Poly, the local university. The most famous resident, however, was media magnate William Randolph Hearst, the real-life inspiration behind Citizen Kane. After he had made his fortune, Hearst returned to the family ranch in San Simeon to begin construction on the ostentatious Hearst Castle, now a National Historic Landmark.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The Route/Journey – Whether you’re coming from the South or the North, relax and soak up the scenery aboard an Amtrak train. The Pacific Surfliner begins further south and connects San Diego to SLO, while the Coast Starlight connects more cities and covers almost the entire West Coast, all the way from Seattle to Los Angeles. Just a word of caution: the Sightseer Lounge Car with its floor-to-ceiling panoramic windows is so comfy, you may not want to disembark. [Photo: David Brossard/Flickr]
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The Moment – Most foreigners – and even many Americans who visit from further afield – have never heard of San Luis Obispo, but speak to any Californian up and down the coast about an impending trip to SLO, and their eyes will glaze over with happy memories of days spent hiking and wine tasting, nights sampling the local flavours and exploring the town. With the spectre of gentrification and commercialisation looming over the town, now may be the time to visit just before it changes. [Photo: San Luis Obispo Chamber of Commerce]
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The Digs – Unless the muchness of decor offends your sensibilities – actually, even if it does – the Madonna Inn is a must-see. Conceived of by the eponymous local developer (and nothing at all to do with the singer) in a spirit of more is more, the sprawling resort is big in size, ambition, and its range of widely diverging interior and exterior styles. The bold use of colour, especially a signature hot pink that can be found everywhere from the dining room to the tennis courts, would put anything in Barbie’s real estate portfolio to shame. Rooms range from rock “caves“ to Heidi-Alpine kitsch and Wild West nostalgia.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The Lunch – Regularly touted as the best in SLO, Big Sky manages to tick every California food trend box without being insufferably faddy. The menu is varied, dishes are generously sized, ingredients fresh and prices reasonable. There’s plenty of meat on the menu, but vegetarians and vegans are well catered for, and there are several gluten-free options. Best of all, it’s open daily and all day, so if in doubt, you know you’ll get fed morning, noon and night.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The Dinner – No prizes for guessing which aspect of their menu Thomas Hill Organics pride themselves on above all, but in addition to organic, their ingredients are also locally sourced and seasonal, and the resulting dishes are varied, inventive and full of flavour. This restaurant has branched out to SLO following the success of the original Paso Robles location. In a modern, loft-like space uncharacteristic for the local dining scene, it offers showy wine country dining for a special occasion.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The Market – In San Luis Obispo County, there’s a market for every day of the week, but the undisputed highlight of every locavore’s week is the farmer’s market in Downtown SLO on Thursday nights. One of the largest of its kind in the country, it takes over a large chunk of the main drag and draws locals as well as visitors from far and wide. With extended shopping hours, a free trolley service and many bars offering live music, the animated atmosphere extends well beyond the market itself. [Photo: Downtown SLO]
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The View – Locals all have their favourite scenic lookout over San Luis Obispo, and the choice of “best” view is usually influenced by factors like age (do you want to hang out with or avoid the college kids?), location (what side of town are you starting from?) and pets (are dogs allowed on the trail?). Suffice to say, if you can see a hill from where you’re standing anywhere in SLO, you’ll probably have a fantastic view of the town, the surrounding hills and the ocean beyond from the peak. Although there is talk of legalising night hiking on SLO city trails, access is currently limited to daylight hours – from one hour before sunrise to one hour after sunset. Having said that, the most popular hikes around the city are short and easy, so getting up in time for sunrise or back down after watching the sunset should be no problem. [Photo: San Luis Obispo Chamber of Commerce]
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The Event – Vina Robles Amphitheater, a 3,300-person venue set in the vineyard of the eponymous Paso Robles winery, hosts a concert series each year and celebrated its 100th performance in 2017. Enjoy musical events from Indie to Oldies – and everything in between – from April through November. You can choose between ticket options from stageside VIP seats to lounging on the lawn, all at surprisingly reasonable prices. Needless to say, there’s great wine to get you in the mood, but the beer and food on offer aren’t bad either.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The Drive – Regardless of all its other qualities, the one thing anyone who has been to visit Point San Luis Lighthouse will tell you is: “the best thing is the journey there.” Whether you arrive on foot, by kayak or in the old-school trolley named “Lucy”, the scenery alone is worth the visit. Plus, there’s also the beautifully restored building, the fascinating history of the lighthouse and its period interiors. [Photo: Todd Bartolome]
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The Secret – If you find yourself in SLO in winter, take the short trip to nearby Pismo Beach to witness an unusual seasonal migration. Each year, Monarch Butterflies fly south in their thousands and seek shelter in a handful of sites along the coast. The Monarch Butterfly Grove at Pismo Beach is one of the largest, with about 25,000 specimens hanging off the branches in a small cluster of trees near the beach, or filling the air on a warm day.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The Hangout – A welcome change from the desolate aura surrounding most US train stations, SLO’s historic railroad district is alive with cafes, restaurants and hangouts like Sally Loo’s Wholesome Café. It offers a small but delicious menu consisting mainly of every student’s favourite meal – late breakfast – plus some tasty salads, sandwiches and delicious coffee. The light-flooded space with its exposed iron beams is welcoming, with a slight industrial touch.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The Shop – Whether you’re looking to pick up some fashion and accessories for yourself, cosmetics and homewares to remind you of your holiday, or gifts for friends and their kids, Len Collective has you covered. Centred around the handmade jewellery of Shannon Len, this chic concept store offers something for everyone, plenty of it made in California. [Photo: Jennifer Young Photography]
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The Sound – SLO sustains an impressive amount of excellent record stores, but the sprawling Boo Boo Records may be the best. The vast selection of new and used vinyl, presided over by helpful and knowledgeable staff, is enough to get music nerds drooling. In addition, a wide range of CDs, DVDs, original art and other creative gift items attract those that aren’t interested in – or don’t have the baggage allowance for – vinyl.
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Weekend Getaway Guide: San Luis Obispo.
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The Kids – Between the hiking, wine tasting and dining, much of the fun in SLO is geared towards adults. The most obvious place to take the whole family is the San Luis Obispo Children’s Museum, but it may also be the best. Offering entertainment for different ages, ranging from the tiniest toddlers to pre-teens, it’s a great option for the rare rainy day. With a focus on learning through play, and a hands-on approach to creativity, parents and kids are encouraged to look, but also touch, make and discover.
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