Travel
24 Hours In… Valletta
introValletta is proof that size can be deceiving. The tiny capital of Mediterranean archipelago Malta has history embedded in every corner. From the Romans to the Knights of St John and British rule, the country’s tumultuous past left Valletta a city bursting with a blend of cultures. But far from living in the shadow of its past, Valletta is embracing its own identity and, as European Capital of Culture for 2018, is ready to show it off.
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24 Hours In… Valletta.
8:308.30am: Tried And Trusted Breakfast – Like their Italian neighbours to the north, the Maltese don’t make breakfast into a big event. Nevertheless, you’ll need something in your stomach for the day ahead, and one of the best places to get it is Prego on South Street. The family-run café hasn’t changed much since its last refurbishment in the 1960s, oozing old-world charm. Order a strong coffee and a pastry, or the day’s first pastizzi (more on them later…). [Photo: Penny Kidd]
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24 Hours In… Valletta.
99am: Have A Wander – Its size makes Valletta the perfect city for walking, and a stroll along the streets is a great way to get a feel for its unique blend of cultures. Red letter boxes on cobblestones bring to mind an English country town, while winding laneways evoke Italian cities, and glowing golden fortresses seem distinctly Arabian. Start at pedestrianised Republic Street before heading to the waterside National War Museum at Fort St Elmo. Keep an ear out for locals speaking Maltese – an intriguing mix of Italian and Arabic. [Photo: Herbert Frank/Flickr]
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24 Hours In… Valletta.
10:1510.15am: Visit St John’s Co-Cathedral – Head back to the centre of town to see the 16th-century St John’s Co-Cathedral. The ornate interior, considered among the best Baroque architecture in Europe, includes The Beheading of St John the Baptist, a masterpiece by renowned Italian painter Caravaggio. The 45-minute audio guide gives interesting insight into the cathedral’s significance. €10 entry for adults, closed on Sundays. [Photo: Viewingmalta.com]
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24 Hours In… Valletta.
11:1511.15am: Coffee And Cake Break – The iconic Café Cordina is a stone’s throw from the cathedral and the perfect place to sample traditional Maltese sweets. The café, which dates back 180 years, has a giant chandelier hanging from a vaulted ceiling and an extensive list of local delicacies. Those with a sweet tooth should try the kannol rikotta (flaky pastry filled with ricotta, chocolate and hazelnuts) or pudina (Maltese bread pudding). [Photo: Steve Hodgson/Flickr]
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24 Hours In… Valletta.
12:4512.45pm: A Taste Of Italy – The Italian-influenced Piadina Caffe (closed Sundays) is a friendly place for a light lunch. Choose from homemade piadinas (Italian flatbreads), focaccias, sandwiches and salads. They also do a great cup of Italian coffee.
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24 Hours In… Valletta.
2 am2pm: Discover Mdina – Exploring different parts of Malta, outside of Valletta, is easy and well worth the effort. A 40-minute bus ride from the capital (buses every 10 minutes) is Mdina, a compact, 4,000-year-old walled city; Game of Thrones fans will recognise it as one of the sets for King’s Landing. A great way to get around “the silent city” (there are very few cars) is by horse and carriage or simply by strolling through narrow streets past medieval sandstone buildings. A handcrafted vase or bowl made from renowned Mdina glass makes an authentic souvenir. [Photo: Viewingmalta.com]
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24 Hours In… Valletta.
4pm4pm: Roam Around Rabat – The township of Rabat is a short walk from Mdina’s walls, and worth visiting for St Paul’s Catacombs. The underground passageways are an impressive (if at times claustrophobic) network of Roman cemeteries that were also used as bomb shelters during World War II. Rabat’s Crystal Palace café is a veritable institution, regarded as one of the best places in Malta to sample pastizzi; flaky pastry parcels stuffed with mushy peas or ricotta, these iconic Maltese snacks sell for under 50 cents. [Photo: Viewingmalta.com/Clive Vella]
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24 Hours In… Valletta.
6 pm6pm: Cruise Into The Sunset – Get back to Valletta and down to the water as the light starts to fade. Choose a ferry or gondola and cruise away from the Grand Harbour, across to the inlets of the tranquil Three Cities – Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua – as the setting sun touches the ancient golden buildings. If there’s time, the restored Fort St Angelo on the edge of Vittoriosa is a great way to relive the battles that shaped Malta. [Photo: Viewingmalta.com]
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24 Hours In… Valletta.
8 pm8pm: Taste …Rabbit? – Like the rest of its culture, Maltese cuisine draws on many influences, but always adds its own special twist. Large portions and tasty dishes are assured almost anywhere you go, but rabbit is an island delicacy. Try it three ways at upmarket Guze bistro (photo) or as part of the Maltese mezze tasting menu at homely Legligin. Vegetarians shouldn’t fear as non-meat options are easy to come by.
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24 Hours In… Valletta.
10pm10pm: Drink And Jazz – One of the coolest spots for a nightcap is Bridge Bar in eastern Valletta. Chilled-out most weekdays, with candlelit tables spilling onto the small bridge for which the bar is named, the place comes alive on Friday nights with live jazz. The band sets up on the bridge, and the audience on the steps opposite. The bevy of bars on reformed Strait Street, previously Valletta’s hotspot of debauchery and prostitution, is another option.
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24 Hours In… Valletta.
PaulosWhere To Stay – The centrally located Paulos Boutique Hotel is a once-grand family home converted into eight mini apartments (each with kitchenette) – without losing its two centuries of charm. The swanky penthouse has a terrace overlooking the Grand Harbour. Standard rooms from €125.
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24 Hours In… Valletta.
ReadRead Before You Go – Death in Malta. This novel by Maltese native Rosanne Dingli tells the story of a writer who moves to Malta and is inspired to write about the mystery of a missing child.
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