Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon
introFor such a small European capital, Lisbon enchants in so many ways. It has a timeless charm, it’s graced with one of the mildest climates in Europe, and evidence of its historic legacy can be found on every corner. Then there are the friendly locals, as well as the competitive cost of living – all of which have turned this city into an indispensable destination.
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Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon.
8 am8am, Breakfast With Tradition – Café A Brasileira is the emblematic café of the city, one you simply can’t skip! Opened in 1905 in the chic Chiado district, its name comes from the fact that it only sold coffee imported from Brazil at the time. It was also a popular haunt for writers and artists, which is why you’ll find the statue of poet Fernando Pessoa outside. Order a bica (a kind of espresso) and pão de Deus (a kind of brioche). [Photo: Etasobal/Wikimedia Commons]
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Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon.
9am9am, An Arch With A View – If you want to get a unique bird’s-eye view over Lisbon, you’ll have to climb the Triumphal Arch, which stands on the axis of the Praça do Comércio plaza and symbolises the rebirth of Lisbon after the tragedy of the 1755 earthquake, fire and tsunami. From here, you can see the city in all her glory before embarking on your day of discovery.
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Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon.
10 am10am, Miles Of Tiles – A form of glazed ceramic tilework, azulejos play a fundamental role in Portuguese art and architecture, and you’ll see them throughout the city as you explore. To delve into the story of this cultural treasure, visit the Museu Nacional do Azulejo, which details the history of the azulejo from the 15th to the 20th century. The museum is located in the magnificent 16th-century convent of Madre de Deus, whose church is a model of baroque art. Not to be missed: the panel representing Lisbon before the earthquake, consisting of 1300 azulejos. You can relax and have a drink in their lovely café at the end of the visit. [Photo courtesy of Museu Nacional do Azulejo, DGPC/Arquivo de Documentação Fotográfica, José Pessoa, 1995]
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Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon.
12pm12pm, A Village In A City – Alfama is Lisbon’s oldest district, with all the picturesque charm of a village. The cradle of the Portuguese musical tradition Fado, this neighbourhood really comes to life every year in June during the festival of Santos Populares – especially 13 June, the day of Saint Anthony of Padua, Lisbon’s patron saint. The festivities feature a mix of locals and tourists who enliven the streets with music and dancing, as well as eating the traditional dish: grilled sardines! [Photo: Paula Franco]
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Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon.
130 pm1:30pm, The Ideal Meal – If there’s one thing the Portuguese love, it’s good food! And thanks to the ongoing revival of Lisbon, there’s no lack of restaurants to choose from. But beware: Many are offering more of the same, while others are much more expensive than they should be. I recommend Taberna do Sal Grosso, a non-pretentious place where young chefs serve traditional Portuguese dishes with an original twist at a very fair price. To top it all off, the service is great! [Photo: Paula Franco]
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Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon.
3 pm3pm, When Portugal Owned The World – It may be hard to imagine now, but in the 16th century, Portugal was a world power running a vast international empire. As a testimony to the splendour of Portuguese discoveries, two grand monuments were erected at the time: the Belém Tower and the Jerónimos Monastery, examples of the Manueline style unique in Europe. While in this area, you can also visit the Centro Cultural de Belém, an amazing architectural work pierced by skylights, where you will find the Museum Coleção Berardo and a theatre with well-curated programming.
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Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon.
430 pm4:30pm, Hit The (Sweet) Spot – Nobody can leave Belém without sampling a pastéis de Belém at the eponymous shop. Founded in 1837, this institution is frequented by locals as much as tourists, and is the place for tasting this delicious Lisboete specialty based off of a secret recipe. If you want to be very local, ask for a ginjinha, our cherry liquor. [Photo courtesy of Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, Lda.]
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Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon.
530 pm5:30pm, A Creative Hub – Moving forward in time to modern Lisbon, Lx Factory is a set of old warehouses reconverted into offices, workshops, shops, cafés and restaurants. It’s one of the most successful space conversions of the city, and a popular hangout for Lisbonites. Highlights include Ler Devagar bookshop, the Fica studio, the Wish coffeeshop, Valérie Lachuer’s jewel atelier and the Muito Muito antique shop. [Photo: Paula Franco]
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Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon.
7pm7pm, Drinks With A Sunset, Please! – Also at Lx Factory, you’ll find one of the city’s best spots for a drink: on the rooftop terrace at Rio Maravilha, overlooking the Tagus river while waiting for the sunset. In fact, you can start your evening here, drinking cocktails, eating exotic food or even dancing! [Photo: Rio Maravilha]
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Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon.
9 pm9pm, Cod It – One of the oldest restaurants in the trendy Príncipe Real neighbourhood, but also the newest – Faz Frio opened more than 100 years ago on Rua Dom Pedro V, then closed in 2017, and has now reopened with new owners. It’s the place to go for classic Portuguese cuisine with a modern touch; try their specialties like bacalhau (cod fish), polvo (octopus) or cabrito (young goat).
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Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon.
1030 pm10:30pm, A Bar …Or A Museum? – First opened in 1986, the Pavilhão Chinês bar features five rooms all decorated in a very different way. Some might call the place a kitschy accumulation of knick-knacks, but in fact, this space was born out of a collector’s desire to share his collection of small relics. Here you’ll find thousands of interesting objects exhibited in curio cabinets – from figurines and dolls to miniature airplanes, hats, helmets, medals, paintings, teapots, maps, flags, Bordalo Pinheiro drawings… the list goes on and on! It’s a real paradise for any collector at heart. [Photo: Bex Walton/Flickr]
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Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon.
12 am12am, Go Wild In Bairro Alto – The Bairro Alto district is without a doubt the city’s nightlife destination. Often deserted during the day, the area comes to life when its numerous bars open late at night. Here, you can walk from bar to bar, drinking a caipirinha, beer, shots… and meet many new friends along the way. The goal is to gather as many friends as possible for the next step: clubbing. [Photo: Enrico Strocchi/Flickr]
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Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon.
2am2am, The Night Is Young – Originally a project by Manuel Reis and John Malkovich, the Lux Frágil is an electro club that surpasses all others in Lisbon. It’s composed of three distinct levels: a rooftop, where you can dance under the stars to the sound of world music on summer evenings; the first floor, where the DJs play soft electro, disco or R&B; and the ground floor, where concerts take place or DJs of international fame play more intense electro beats until the end of the night – in other words, breakfast!
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Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon.
ReadRead Before You Go – Night Train to Lisbon by Pascal Mercier is a kind of meditation on the journey of life – an intriguing and philosophically profound story about Raimund Gregorius, a character trapped in a boring life who boards a night train in the hope of feeling alive and connected to himself once more.
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Travel
24 Hours In… Lisbon.
AuthorPaula Franco is the author and photographer behind the blog Lisbon by Light. In 2004, she took a sabbatical leave from her life in Paris and never came back. Now in Lisbon, she loves the light, the kindness of the locals and the slow pace of this unique capital. Her blog and Instagram tell the stories of creative locals, entrepreneurs and artists who believe in this city.
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