First-time visitors to Rio de Janeiro can expect to have their senses dazzled, their hearts won and their expectations surpassed. Tom Le Mesurier, local food writer and founder of Eat Rio Food Tours, gives us a glimpse into his ideal day in the Marvelous City. [Photo: Wikimedia Commons]
7am: Breakfast At A Street Market – Rio’s feiras (street markets) are crammed full of stalls selling intensely flavoured exotic fruits and street food. Try the freshly squeezed sugarcane juice with a deep-fried, cheese-filled pastel (pastry pocket) and follow up with a sweet tapioca pancake. Market locations change each day – find the closest to you using the Onde Tem Feira website.
8am: Ascend Sugarloaf Mountain – Iconic Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain) is spectacular from every angle, but the view from the very top on a clear morning really takes your breath away. Beat the crowds by catching the first ride to the top, then drink in those sublime views. bondinho.com.br [Photo: Wikimedia Commons]
10am: Grab A Souvenir – Leave the plastic Christ the Redeemer statuettes for the chumps and pick up a lasting reminder of Rio that you won’t hate by the time you get home. Gilson Martins’ bags, wallets and purses are beautifully crafted and emblazoned with tasteful images of Rio. gilsonmartins.com.br
11am: Get A Glimpse Of Tomorrow – Enjoy a peaceful stroll through newly renovated Praça Mauá while you admire Rio’s newest museum, Museu do Amanhã. Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava’s spaceship-like masterpiece houses this “Museum of Tomorrow” with fantastic exhibits focusing on sustainability and possible visions of the future. museudoamanha.org.br [Photo: Bernard Lessa]
1pm: Lunch At Café do Alto – No visit to Rio would be complete without spending some time in Bohemian Santa Teresa, a magnet for artists and romantics. Soak up the atmosphere as you walk the narrow cobbled streets and then enjoy authentic Brazilian dishes at underrated Café do Alto. cafedoalto.com.br
2.30pm: Visit Parque das Ruinas – This broken-down old mansion was once the venue for parties attended by artists and intellectuals in the early 20th century. After 40 years of abandonment, the shell of the building was rescued in 1993, and today the viewing gallery provides breathtaking vistas across the city. facebook.com/parquedasruinas
3.30pm: Browse The Feira de São Cristóvão – Best visited on weekends, this enormous semi-open market will overwhelm your senses with the best of northeastern Brazilian culture. Live Forro music and dancing, stores selling cachaça and crafted goods, and hilarious solo karaoke machines – sing like there’s no one listening (there probably isn’t). feiradesaocristovao.org.br
6.30pm: Taste The Terroir – No idea about Brazilian wine? No problem: WineHouse won the prestigious Veja award for Best Wine Bar 2015 and sells a great range of Brazilian wines, many by the glass. The reasonable prices get even easier on the pocket before 8pm on weekdays. winehouserio.com [Photo: Paulo Prado]
8pm: Dinner At CT Boucherie – Skip the quantity-over-quality rodizio (all-you-can-eat) restaurants and opt instead for this carnivorous connoisseur’s paradise. The ‘CT’ stands for Claude Troisgros, a French chef of impeccable family pedigree who moved to Rio over 30 years ago and has become a national treasure. ctboucherie.com.br [Picture: Alexander Landau]
10pm: Lounge In Lapa – As night falls, Cariocas (Rio locals) gravitate towards the bars and clubs of Lapa. In the shadow of the impressive Arcos da Lapa, you’ll find Bar Semente, an intimate little drinking hole and club where you can enjoy potent caipirinhas and get up close to some of the city’s best musicians and performers. facebook.com/barsemente [Photo: Felipe Fittipaldi]
11.30pm: Samba the Night Away – On weekdays, Lapa’s excellent samba clubs are the best option, but on weekends those in the know leave the tourist hordes behind and head to Trapiche Gamboa in Saúde. Dance the night away, or simply watch in awe as the locals show you how it’s done. Expect to leave tired and happy. facebook.com/trapichegamboaoficial
Late: Bed Down At Casa Beleza – Hidden away in the heart of Santa Teresa, this gem of a guesthouse will conjure up memories of ‘The Secret Garden’. The friendly and knowledgeable owners help their guests get the most out of their time in Rio. casabeleza.com
Watch Before You Go: Bossa Nova legend Tom Jobim once famously said that “Brazil is not for beginners”, and this country really does defy simple explanations. Oscar-nominated documentary Waste Land (2010) beautifully shines a light on the best and worst this complex country has to offer. wastelandmovie.com
Read Before You Go: A great all-round introduction to the many aspects of life (and death), culture, politics, history and gastronomy of Brazil, Peter Robb’s A Death in Brazil is a must-read. amazon.com
Listen Before You Go: Tune into Brazilian rock legends Novos Baianos 1972 hit ‘Acabou Chorare’, a timeless classic that will aurally prepare you for the joyful spirit of this beautiful and beguiling city. wikipedia.org
Tom Le Mesurier is the founder of Rio’s first culinary tour business, Eat Rio Food Tours. He also works as a freelance food and travel writer. Visit eatrio.net
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