Travel
Hidden Algarve: 5 Affordable Luxe Stays
Sun and sand, yes, but also serenity and luxury: these stylish hotels and villas reveal a secret side to Portugal’s popular seaside paradise
Portugal’s sun-kissed Algarve region is best known for beachfront hotels packed together in settlements along the country’s southern coast, where travellers congregate in their numbers. Another Algarve exists, however, one where solitude and serene surroundings are the order of the day. Here are five luxurious yet affordable accommodations to book for a laid-back getaway.
Casas da Quinta de Cima
Once a working farm where cereals were grown, Casas da Quinta de Cima occupies a peaceful patch of real estate not far from the water in the town of Vila Nova de Cacela, close to the Spanish border. Today, the property, which boasts citrus groves and avocado trees, offers nine guestrooms in whitewashed cottages where farmhands previously lived. Local touches include ceilings lined with traditional strips of cane, and bathrooms adorned in a brown-hued marble sourced nearby. For those in need of privacy, the hotel has a pair of tastefully decorated villas, each with a pool.
[Casas da Quinta de Cima. Photos: Ricardo Oliveira]
Owner José Maria Brion, a Portuguese actor whose family has managed the land for the last century, has carefully converted the agricultural estate into a cosy sanctuary. Antique furnishings mix with modern accoutrements that together produce a rustic-chic atmosphere.
Our Tip: Just down the road from Casas da Quinta de Cima, in the town of Castro Marim, one finds Sal Marim, a salt pan farm that hand-harvests quality fleur de sel used by top Portuguese chefs.
Quinta do Pinheiro
Moving west, another idyllic venue for visitors in search of peace and quiet is Quinta do Pinheiro. Opened this year, the converted 19th-century farmstead is a stone’s throw from sandy dunes and bordered by vineyards. There are five cottages – each hosting two or three bedrooms and equipped with a full-service kitchen – and all have been renovated with great care by architect Frederico Valsassina; see the well-preserved Algarvian chimneys and use of local stone for the flooring. To fight off the blistering heat, a large water storage tank once used by farmhands now serves as a pool and spot for those seeking a time out on the sun lounger.
[Quinta do Pinheiro]
Our Tip: The nearby settlement of Cabanas de Tavira hosts the restaurant Noélia, run by self-taught cook Noélia Jerónimo, who is famous in the region for her out-of-this-world seafood dishes.
Casa Modesta
To escape the hustle and bustle of the Algarve capital, Faro, a tranquil sojourn may be had at Casa Modesta, a former fisherman’s residence from the 1940s that underwent a well-measured facelift to become a small but beautiful nine-key boutique hotel. Set on the edge of the Ria Formosa Natural Park’s coastal lagoon, this stunning whitewashed structure is all about subtlety, and its modernist look is worth exploring in detail. Patios are outfitted with hammocks, plus there’s a traditional wood-fired oven and a sturdy table made of Douglas fir in the barrel-vaulted dining area. Materials from the Algarve feature prominently, from cork to brass.
[Casa Modesta. Photos: Guilherme da Rosa]
Our Tip: Hop on a ferry to explore the barrier islands of Ria Formosa and visit the flat sandy beach of Praia da Armona.
Viceroy at Ombria Algarve
Given the concentration of oceanfront hotels in the Algarve, the opening of the Viceroy at Ombria Algarve resort has allowed serenity-seeking holidaymakers to venture inland to unwind and avoid the crowds. North of Loulé and far from the sea, the hotel’s design mimics the vibe of a local village with a cluster of gleaming white buildings nestled into the hillside. There are 141 rooms divided into 20 categories, with some featuring private pools, jacuzzis and kitchenettes. For those in need of exercise beyond the pool, an 18-hole golf course awaits.
[Viceroy at Ombria Algarve. Photos: Letizia Cigliutti]
Our Tip: Tucked away in the hotel is a full-service spa offering treatments from Ignae, a beauty brand from the Azores specialising in skincare that uses ingredients from the mid-Atlantic archipelago.
Morgado do Quintão
Staying away from the coast and moving west allows one to come across the vineyards of Morgado do Quintão, a family-owned winery that doubles as a hotel with its collection of rustic cottages and guestrooms. Upon arrival, one cannot help but be impressed by the majestic 2,000-year-old olive tree that sits on the grounds of the main building.
[Morgado do Quintão]
Guests may partake in tastings to sample the estate’s wines and olive oil while learning about the history of Algarvian wine, which traces its roots back to the time of the Phoenicians. Here, they champion centuries-old wine blends like Palhete. Pull up a chair and discover indigenous grape varieties from the region, such as Negra Mole and Crato Branco, that are bottled by the winery and have earned it awards.
Our Tip: To savour local cuisine, take a trip to Adega Vila Lisa in Mexilhoeira Grande. Patrons are treated to a charming eatery from times gone by, with communal tables, white-and-blue checkered tablecloths and a fixed tasting menu of classic dishes.
[Header image: Quinta do Pinheiro]
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