Style
How To Start A Watch Collection
Watch collecting may seem an intimidating (and expensive) hobby, but our expert Andy Callan says otherwise – and offers his advice on getting started
Call it the nostalgia instinct: in a time when technological advances are rocketing ahead faster than ever before, the allure of the traditional has never been stronger. This is perhaps nowhere more evident than in the world of watch collecting.
Today, as we carry vast amounts of computing power in our trouser pockets, mechanical watches have become essentially obsolete, a relic of a bygone era. Yet, for many people, that very fact remains their greatest charm. While modern scientific advancements are undeniably astonishing, nothing can compete with a well-made timepiece in terms of heritage, artistry and sheer personality.
If you’re new to the idea of starting your own watch collection, though, it may seem an intimidating proposition – and understandably so. There is a lot of advice out there and oceans of information to digest. But fear not: the most important aspects to consider remain unchanged by passing trends or market whims, so picking up the basics is a snap.
First: Think About Your “Why”
The first question to ask yourself is: What do I hope to gain from watch collecting? For most, it boils down to either a love of the watches themselves or a desire to make good investments. Your personal “why” will have a considerable effect on what you buy.
If you’re collecting out of a love for timepieces, you’ll be drawn to models that reflect your own tastes and individuality. If your primary motivation is financial, you’ll gravitate toward high-demand watches with strong resale potential – whether or not they appeal to you in any other way.
Ask any expert, however, and they will counsel you to buy what you love. There are very few guarantees regarding return on investment, and ultimately, these beautiful items were made to be enjoyed for what they are rather than what they might be worth in the future. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with aiming for a combination: collecting watches you love that are expected to perform well on the resale market. Just avoid centring money as the most important point.
Your First Model
The beginning of any new hobby is an exciting time, and it can be easy to get carried away. When it comes to watch collecting, we recommend focusing on just one piece to start out, and then building on it over time.
The question, then, is: What piece should you buy first? To answer it, consider factors like:
(1) The type of lifestyle you lead (casual and outdoorsy vs formal and professional)
(2) The sort of aesthetic you are drawn to (flamboyant, minimalist or somewhere in between)
(3) The complications you find most interesting, aesthetic or useful (refer to our guide here)
(4) Whether you will wear it every day or only on special occasions (could mean the difference between choosing a new model or a vintage one)
(5) Whether you seek some sort of special significance (eg, a watch made in your birth year or one from a favourite film)
In the majority of cases, a watch with stylistic versatility is the safest bet – one that will look at home in a variety of situations and with a number of outfits.
Discipline 007
Possibly second only to casino-going, watch collecting is an activity where you’re best advised to set a budget and stick to it.
Great watches can be bought for as little as USD 200, but they can also cost the same as a very large house, and nothing ruins the attraction of collecting more than the belated realisation that you have overspent. So, map out a realistic annual budget for your new collection, and see which models fall within it. If your goal piece is outside your plan, you have the option of either saving up over time or buying now and resolving to wait until it’s paid off before acquiring the next.
Luckily, watch collecting is not as expensive as it may seem. While it’s not necessarily the safest of places to park your money, high-quality timepieces tend to retain a certain amount of value; the true price of a watch is the difference between what you buy it for and what you can sell it for in the future.
One thing you should consider, however, is service costs. Mechanical watches require professional maintenance every five to ten years or so, and, depending on factors like complexity and age, you may be looking at not-inconsiderable amounts of money.
Research, Research, Research
New watch collectors have their work cut out for them. There’s an almost inconceivable amount of material out there purporting to offer advice on which models to buy. Unfortunately, much of it is based on opinion rather than fact, and being able to tell the difference is something which only comes from experience. So, where to start?
One simple option is to seek out online watch forums populated by real people who have bought and lived with the timepiece you’re interested in. Dedicate some time to reading through relevant threads, and don’t be afraid to ask questions – the best thing about watch nerds is that they love to talk!
An even better alternative is to attend events. Check out your local chapter of the RedBar Group, for example. The world’s largest community of watch collectors and enthusiasts, RedBar meet-ups are the perfect place to chat to fellow watch lovers and actually try on various models.
Consider Pre-Owned
A brand new watch is all very well and good, but just like any product – luxury or otherwise – it generally depreciates the second you leave the store. That’s one of the reasons the pre-owned watch market is such a massive industry. You can save significant amounts of money as a second or third owner, and in many cases, especially with sought-after brands like Rolex or Patek Philippe, it may be the only way to buy your dream watch without breaking the bank.
There is one crucial caveat: the amounts of money involved in the second-hand market do tend to bring out the unscrupulous, so it is almost as essential to research the seller as it is the watch.
Our Top Recommendations For First-Time Buyers
…Under USD 2,000
Longines Hydroconquest
Built like a tank and cool as ice, this luxury Swiss diver looks just as great with a business suit as with a wetsuit. (From USD 1,800)
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPB43
Exuding understated style for more formal occasions, Seiko’s renowned Presage series offers unrivalled value for money. (From USD 500)
…Under USD 5,000
Tudor Black Bay
Everything you’ll ever need in a single watch, Tudor’s Black Bay range is a retro-designed triumph. (Approximately USD 5,000)
TAG Heuer Carrera Date
The quintessential gentleman’s racer from one of the industry’s most legendary names. (Approximately USD 3,700)
…Under USD 10,000
Omega Speedmaster Professional ‘Moonwatch’
Arguably the most famous watch ever made. If it’s good enough for NASA, it’s good enough for us. (Approximately USD 7,000)
Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Probably the only affordable Rolex you can buy through an authorised dealer, and the ultimate “one watch for every situation” piece. (Approximately USD 7,100)
Sorry, the comment form is closed at this time.