Food

Savouring Lisbon: The Essentials Dining Guide

The Portuguese capital is flourishing in its newfound role as a top European destination – and so is its dining scene

By Ivan Carvalho

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Lisbon’s recently won status as a tourist mecca brings with it an ever-greater number of dining options for travellers interested in Portuguese cuisine. Chefs and restaurateurs have raised their game, with tradition and innovation sharing the table at many new openings, while the country’s winemakers continue to strive for perfection as they show off the nation’s impressive range of local grape varieties. To be sure, seafood is the main attraction when eating out in the city, but prepare yourself to go beyond staple dishes like bacalhau (dried and salted codfish prepared in countless ways) or popular favourites like the pastel de nata custard tart. Today, Lisbon is full of edible surprises.

For Gourmet Gastronomy: Sála Restaurant by Chef Joao Sá

After earning his first Michelin star last year for his creative seafood interpretations, chef João Sá at Sála continues to impress diners with delicate yet refined dishes that change frequently to take advantage of fresh, seasonal ingredients. The dining room feels both cosy and cosmopolitan, with its exposed wood tables and brushed-bronze bar. His ingenious concoctions draw on influences from afar, notably a couscous with coriander and razor clams, attractively presented (the couscous is a lush green colour) and elevated by notes of citrus on the palate. His wine list delights, too, ranging from Douro producer Luís Seabra to a Lisbon-area fortified wine from Carcavelos.

[Images courtesy of Sala Restaurant]

For Farm-To-Table Fare: Canalha

Opened in 2023, Canalha recreates the vibe of a classic neighbourhood tasca eatery, but with a more sophisticated look. In the kitchen is João Rodrigues, a chef with Michelin experience who sought to create a spot where patrons could share comfort food and where ingredients are king; Rodrigues is also the creator of Matéria, a nonprofit promoting foodstuffs from small-scale Portuguese producers. Plop yourself down in one of the sleek wood-and-leather chairs, or at the marble-lined counter, and savour substantial dishes such as an open-faced omelette with prawns and onions, bluefin tuna tiradito and grilled lamb sweetbreads from Alentejo.

[Images courtesy of Canalha © Joana Freitas]

For Stunning Views: Bairro Alto Hotel

When it comes time for a relaxing sundowner in the Portuguese capital, many retreat to the rooftop bar at the swanky Bairro Alto Hotel, perched on a hill in front of Luís de Camões Square. Whether you’re thirsty for a gin and tonic or a crisp white wine from the Minho region, the venue provides gorgeous views of the Tagus River and the 25 de Abril bridge. For nibbles, order delectable finger foods such as meat croquettes and cured cheese from the Azores.

[Images courtesy of Bairro Alto Hotel © Manuel Manso]

For Local Flavours: Nunes Real Marisqueira

Lisbon’s location next to the Atlantic means the bounty of the sea is on display daily for diners, and nowhere is it more interesting than at Nunes. Three years ago, this local secret close to Belém Tower overhauled its dining space to create a glam-meets-Art-Deco venue where shellfish are the stars. Sample delicacies like prawns or percebes (gooseneck barnacles with a taste as pure as the sea) before heading to more serious fare, such as spider crab or lavagante à basca, Basque-style blue lobster served with fried eggs and thinly sliced fried potatoes.

[Images courtesy of Marisqueira Nunes © HK Photography]

For An Edible Souvenir: Time Out Market

Next to the Cais do Sodré train station, this sprawling food hall occupies what was once a bustling city market (you can still find some vendors selling fresh produce). Today, it is filled with shops, bars and mini restaurant concepts from several leading chefs, including Michelin-star power couple Marlene Vieira and João Sá, who operate informal kitchen set-ups here to tempt patrons. Take home Portuguese chocolates, teas and tinned fish at A Vida Portuguesa, whose stores across Lisbon promote traditional national brands. For an easy-going aperitivo, venture to the counter at Pigmeu and sample an array of natural wines.

[Images courtesy of Time Out Lisboa]

For An Iconic Experience: Praia no Parque

Situated in one of the city’s most beautiful venues, right in the heart of Eduardo VII Park, Praia no Parque offers a delicious mix of cocktails, wine and food before morphing into a nightclub complete with a DJ. Housed in a stunning 1950s-era building surrounded by parkland, guests are first welcomed at a bar manned by a sushi chef. The main dining area is effortlessly chic with its round red velvet banquettes, and the menu varies widely, from classics like steak tartare to crayfish ravioli. During the day, enjoy a relaxing lunch or late afternoon aperitif; at dusk, expect a festive evening where dancing after dinner is entirely welcome.

[Images courtesy of Praia no Parque]

For Exotic Cuisine: Ryoshi

Brazilian chef Lucas Azevedo has long had a fascination with Japanese culture, and his culinary mind works hard to fashion dishes that tempt even the most demanding palates. Having lived in Osaka, Azevedo leans on his experience to surprise patrons at Ryoshi with a fusion approach where the menu is in constant flux. Expect out-of-this-world katsu sando alongside delicacies such as unagi don, a savoury, creamy umami bomb that combines eel, white rice and egg yolk. Azevedo draws on street food and modern techniques in his kitchen to create items like pão de caril, a twist on the fried Japanese curry bread, and gyoza-stuffed chicken wings.

[Images courtesy of Ryoshi Lisbon]

For People-Watching: JNcQUOI Avenida

Part of the chic selection of restaurants run by the Amorim family under the JNcQUOI label, Avenida sits on Lisbon’s main boulevard inside the historic Tivoli theatre. Its upscale dining room is hard to miss, since it features a replica T. rex dinosaur hovering over patrons and eyeing their dishes. Resident chef Filipe Carvalho, whose past postings include overseeing Michelin-starred eatery 50 Seconds in Lisbon, keeps the public satisfied with plates of grilled bluefin tuna in razor clam rice and chateaubriand. The standout team of sommeliers is on hand to procure big-bottle formats of older vintages from the cellar, as well as newer releases from emerging Portuguese winemakers.

[Image courtesy of Jncquoi Avenida]

For Local Libations: Senhor Uva

Quebec natives Stephanie Audet and Marc Singh Davidson have carved out a lovely niche at Senhor Uva, pouring wines from producers whose minimal intervention approach ensures every glass expresses the terroir and varietal. In their digs close to the Jardim da Estrela park, chef Audet prepares tantalising dishes which focus on vegetables (think: oyster mushroom bok choy and green jackfruit ceviche with avocado). Expect to see local sous chefs and sommeliers on their day off sipping a tipple served by Davidson. If tables are hard to find, you can venture to their second locale around the corner, Pinot Bar de Vinhos.

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For A Night Cap: Red Frog

Situated just off Avenida da Liberdade, this clandestine bar (be sure to make a reservation, and look for the doorbell underneath the red frog at the entrance to gain access) takes its inspiration from the speakeasies of the Prohibition-era US. Having placed among the top 50 of the World’s Best Bars list in 2022, standards are high – and the expert team of mixologists stays busy crafting a seasonal menu of libations. Hard-to-forget cocktails include the Spiced Rusty Cherry, showcasing late-bottled vintage port wine and ginja, a Portuguese liqueur made from sour cherries.