Lifestyle
The 10 Top Independent Watchmakers To Know
By taking risks, embracing creativity and driving innovation, these independent horologists from around the world have made their mark on the watchmaking industry
When it comes to independent watchmaking, not all brands share the same mission. Some see themselves as protectors of watchmaking heritage, preserving traditional techniques for future generations, while others are mavericks driving innovation with avant-garde designs and groundbreaking materials. All of them, however, operate with the sense of freedom that can only come from complete autonomy over the creative process. Below, we list our favourite independent watchmakers operating today, from the surprisingly attainable to the exceedingly exclusive.
Furlan Marri
Furlan Marri was founded by close friends Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri in 2020, right in the middle of the Covid lockdown. Original funding came via a Kickstarter campaign that raised 75,000 Swiss francs in under a minute and ended above 1 million in total after a month, and the brand has since gone on to produce a catalogue of stunning Patek-Philippe-inspired models at very accessible prices. Whether housing a mechanical movement or mecha-quartz, every watch is fitted with vintage-era dials and distinctive flourishes.
Kurono Tokyo
Kurono Tokyo founder Hajime Asaoka is a Japanese master watchmaker whose work has been recognised at the highest levels of the global industry. Every component is made by the man himself, and among his achievements is the first tourbillon created entirely in Japan. While his eponymous models often change hands for six-figure sums, his auxiliary brand, started in 2019, offers a much more accessible selection – and what they lack in handmade detail, they make up for in wonderfully clean styling and versatile aesthetics. From the Art Deco Complications series to the sophistication of the Classics collection, there is something for everyone, from one of the most exciting independent watchmakers operating today.
Habring2
Habring2 is another new addition to the horology landscape, a family-run concern based in Völkermarkt, Austria. Having released their first watch in 2004, husband-and-wife team Richard and Maria Habring have displayed a talent for complications – Richard, formerly of IWC, is responsible for the collection of deadbeat seconds, split-second chronographs, perpetual calendars and other functions embedded into the brand’s range of timepieces. Once powered by third-party movements, Habring2 has recently become a fully fledged manufacture building its own calibres. However, if you would like to own one, you need to be patient – production maxes out at just 200 models each year.
Garrick
England once rivalled Switzerland in the horology industry, and while that may no longer be the case, the UK is still home to a number of brands that keep the tradition alive. Garrick is one such standout British atelier, beginning life in Norfolk in 2014. Only producing around 50 pieces annually, all are completely bespoke, with clients specifying every detail down to the dial motif, finishes, inks, handset and more. A true haute horlogerie manufacture, Garrick’s models are by no means cheap, and each one takes around 18 months to deliver. But owners get the satisfaction of knowing there is no one else on earth wearing the same watch.
Vero
If you’re in the mood for pure Americana, look no further than Oregon independent Vero. Co-founded in 2015 by professional triathlete Chris Boudreaux and inspired by the landscapes of the Pacific Northwest, Vero’s watches are set for action. Brightly coloured and robustly built in the brand’s Portland workshops, all are powered by top-quality Swiss movements – whether automatic, manually winding or quartz. Check out their Open Water 41 – Daybreak for an attention-grabbing dive watch, or peruse the Smokey Bear range – a throwback to 1940s military field models.
Studio Underd0g
London-based firm Studio Underd0g has been making waves since arriving on the scene in 2021 with its catalogue of eccentric, lighthearted watches, often released in micro batches and sold out within hours. However, despite their happy-go-lucky ethos, Studio Underd0g’s timepieces are the real thing. Materials and finishing are both top-notch, and power comes from excellent Swiss movements. Quirky, character-driven and – most of all – fun, their vibrant collection is one well worth exploring.
Romain Gauthier
Born in the heart of watchmaking heritage, Romain Gauthier hails from the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland. Debuting in 2005, the brand is now a multi-award-winning, entirely in-house manufacture responsible for a string of industry-leading innovations. Gauthier’s highly collectible models are exquisitely crafted, fascinating to look at and built with engineering integrity; each exhibits incredible attention to detail and a quality of finishing that’s rare to see. A combination of the best Swiss traditions and the latest cutting-edge mechanics, little else out there can compete with this charismatic designer.
Oris
Proving that ‘independent’ doesn’t have to equal ‘obscure’, Swiss brand Oris has remained a private concern since its founding in 1904. This means that, although well-established in the mainstream, the brand is still free to forge its own path, and has consistently numbered among the best bang-for-your-buck picks out there. Operating under their “Go Your Own Way” tagline, Oris is the maker to turn to for accessible luxury, with class-leading divers such as the Sixty-Five and Aquis collections, as well as superb aviation pieces like the Big Crown ProPilot series. They began building their own movements in 2014, thus adding to the value proposition and demonstrating that there’s much to be achieved when you stay true to the mission.
Kudoke
Stefan Kudoke launched his family-run Saxony atelier in 2004, following extensive training with the likes of Breguet, Blancpain and Omega. Kudoke specialises in skilfully executed engraving and hand-finishing and was the first German indie to win a Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award. Key to the brand’s success has been their KUNSTwerk collection; translating to ‘works of art’, the range features models with breathtakingly detailed dial sculptures. Sea creatures, skeletons, delicate flowers and more adorn these extraordinary watches, lending each one the sort of artisanal flair you can only get with independent manufactures.
De Bethune
To end with one of the all-time pioneers: De Bethune, established in 2002, is now one of the most sought-after ateliers in the world, thanks to their fusion of classical mastery and ultra-modern styling. Among their litany of innovations, De Bethune was the first brand to widely integrate silicon and titanium in their components, fitting them inside models that wouldn’t look out of place in a high-budget sci-fi movie. Floating lugs, sculpted bridges and celestial dials all feature heavily, manifesting an unmistakable design language. Not as wacky or in-your-face as the likes of Urwerk or Richard Mille, De Bethune is celebrated for its masterpieces that are as visually striking as they are technically ingenious.
